This cold weather sees me longing for some sunshine. I’m not a cold weather person and my summer holidays to Italy and Portugal (and the hundred degree heat that I love) feel like a life time ago now. I went to Budapest in the summer too, but that doesn’t count because even though we went in early September, it was cold. And I don’t mean just a bit chilly. I was almost blue when, on the second day, I walked into the nearest outdoor shop and walked back out wrapped in a brand new puffer jacket.
It was my own fault. I thought that Europe equaled sunshine. Now I know that the weather in Eastern Europe is much like the UK; unreliable at best. I’d imagined balmy bike rides and al fresco dining but my reality was wind and rain and a £170 coat bill.
Still, what Budapest lacked in the weather department it more than made up for elsewhere.
I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived, although I’d heard good things. We stayed on the Pest side of the Danube, in the opera district. It felt pretty posh. All of the shops around us were designer, the architecture was grand (neo-Renaissance with elements of Baroque apparently)…even the subway, built in the late 19th century, was immaculate.
The city is bigger than I expected as well, although we managed to see loads in our 3-days there.
A bike tour
I love a bike tour. You can cover more ground and it’s the best way to learn about the history of a place, especially when you’re short on time. On our second day, we joined a group tour, arranged by Viator. The 4-hour excursion left from the Jewish quarter, only a 10-minute walk from our hotel. Most of the group were Brits so, of course, we kept to ourselves apart from a quick “where are you from?” from a family of women, the youngest of which seemed determined to be at the front at all times. It was thrilling / scary as we cycled the main roads of the city taking in the tourist hotspots, including the opera house, the parliament building and St Stephen’s Basilica.
Icy wind in our hair, fingers frozen to the handlebar, we crossed one of the many bridges over to Buda to see the parliament building from across the water.
It was a relief when midway through the tour we stopped for a coffee and to warm up. And even though our guide was interesting and knowledgable and the tour was a highlight, it was also a relief when it came to an end.
Some highlights
We found all of the main tourist attractions accessible on foot. Some highlights:
The Museum of Ethnography
The outside of the museum is harmonised with the park environment surrounding it. You can literally have a picnic ON the outside of the building.
Shoes on the Danube Bank
Particularly poignant, this is a memorial to honour the Jews massacred in Budapest during the Second World War. Those killed, were ordered to take off their shoes (shoes were valuable and could be stolen and resold). They were then shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the bank.
60 Andrassy Avenue
Our guide told us of the country’s communist past as we viewed the iron curtain monument outside of 60 Andrassy Avenue . Once home to the fascist and communist secret police, it is now the House of Terror museum. No, we didn’t go inside.
Anything else?
Anonymous
My favourite statue. Anonymous was a writer of the country’s early history. Legend has it that if you touch or stoke his pen it brings good luck (not a euphemism).
St Stephen’s Basilica
The inside of the basilica is so intricate in detail, it’s impossible to take it all in. I lit a candle and sat for a while though, trying to. My legs were jelly like after we climbed to the top of the tower. We were promised the best views of the city and we were not disappointed.
The parliament building
Built in 1902, it is the largest building in the country. It has a similar look to the parliament building in the UK, both built in the gothic revival style. Inside, the building is decorated using more than 40 kilograms of 22 to 23 carat gold, including rare gold leaves. This is on display in many areas, particularly in the staircases and intricate ceiling designs.
Napfényes Restaurant and Confectionery
A vegan restaurant, located on a cosy street in the centre of the city. It was so nice to be able to enjoy vegan alternatives to traditional Hungarian food. Everything we tried was delicious.
River cruise at night
All of the reviews said that we must take a river cruise at night to see the city buildings lit up from the Danube. The photos don’t do it justice. Budapest is even colder at night. I was glad I wrapped up.
You should go
I loved Budapest. I learned so much about the county’s history, which unlike other countries, they don’t seem to shy away from. We stayed at the, Opera Garden Hotel & Apartments, and the staff were some of the best I’ve encountered.
Budapest is clean, the people are friendly, the food is amazing and it’s really affordable. Just remember to take a coat, even in the summer.