I have visited charming Tavira four times now, counting the day trip I took there when I was visiting nearby Olhão, and each time I return I am more enthralled by this beautiful city. Tavira is one of the lesser known cities on the Algarve, making it, for me, refreshingly less touristy than nearby Albufeira or Vilamoura. As such I feel I get a taste of the real Portugal.
Our home, when we visit, is a traditional white washed villa located a 10 minute drive outside of town (comedian Jason Manford has a place nearby). The white knuckle ride up the ‘drive way’ is worth it for the scenery that greets your arrival. The only thing that breaks your view of the surrounding countryside is the ocean in the distance. At night the sky is aglow with a blanket of stars. The tooting of owls lulls you to sleep and your morning alarm is the cock-a-doodle-do from a neighbouring rooster. You can while away the days taking brunch on the terrace or lazing by the villa’s salt water pool, but that feels like a waste when the area has so much to offer.
What to do in charming Tavira?
Tavira city is so picturesque, its long history evident from the moorish architecture and winding cobbled streets. Crumbling tiled buildings are juxtaposed with the city’s more modern additions. It’s two bridges, one old one new, span the Gilão River, giving the appearance of a city of two halves. You can take a whistle stop tour of the sites on a tuk-tuk, culminating at the medieval castle with its beautiful gardens and magnificent views. Or, if you prefer, amble around the city on foot taking in the bustling markets, the multitude of churches and the elegant Praça da República (the central square).
The beaches in Tavira are picture perfect with white sand and clear waters. Tavira Island is a favourite with locals and tourists alike. Accessible only by boat, the public ferry is economical; however, our preference it to take a water taxi. Taxis are private, quicker and they enter the island via the salt pans, home to the local flamingos. It’s a breathtaking sight if you are lucky enough to catch the flamboyance take flight on your way through. Flamingos aside, my favourite beach is at Barril. Technically still part of Tavira Island, it is accessible by bridge, on foot or via the open mini-train, avoiding the boat transfer. Barril has more of a hippy vibe than Tavira Island, with a nicer selection of shops and restaurants.
And further afield?
If you have a car, there is so much to do in and around the Algarve. An hour from Tavira is Portimão, where by way of a speed boat, you can tour the spectacular Algarve coastline and its numerous caves, including Benagil, the most famous sea cave on the Algarve.
Olhão, known for its waterfront fish market, is only a short trip by train or car and Albufeira, with its pretty old town is less than an hours drive.
Vilamoura, in contrast to the quaintness of Tavira, is an elegant resort town with a good choice of restaurants and branded shops and its fun to guess the prices of the super yachts moored in the marina.
By no means a super yacht, our overnight stay on an electric catamaran, anchored off Farol beach was memorable. Getting from the catamaran to the beach using the paddle board or inflatable row boat provided, proved equal measure terrifying and hilarious. Waking up to the sound of rock music as the local fishermen made out to sea was magical. Watching the sun go down over the ocean with my daughter was even more memorable. I won’t talk too much about the constant movement of the boat, or the toilet situation; the thought of both still makes me nauseous.
Anything else?
Enjoyable for big and little kids alike, the Aqua Show waterpark has the biggest water flume in Europe (picture me with my head tucked into my 12-year old daughter’s shoulder). It’s a fun (read terrifying) day out, although we visited in peak season and there were long queues for the rides and chaotic scenes when buying food.
If you want to travel further afield, Tavira is also close to the borders of Spain and Gibraltar. On our next trip, we hope to spot Orca whales off Tarifa and tour the Andalusian capital Seville, both only a couple of hours away.
Food, of course
Because of my restricted diet, food brings equal part pleasure and stress when I travel abroad (you get sick of bread and chips quicker than you’d think). The food in Tavira is predominately Portuguese (no way); think Portuguese steak, octopus rice and fresh fish. However, most of the restaurants we’ve visited have some alternative options and there is always plenty of salad, vegetables and of course bread and chips. A favourite restaurant is Zeca da Bica, which, by all account makes the best octopus rice, and I can personally attest to the deliciousness of their vegetable stew. Of course, there are other culinary options. On our last visit we found Italian restaurant Acqua e Sale, where the hostess was super friendly and accommodating, especially to the coeliac in our party. And Dawat Indian restaurant on the front, is a favourite of the locals and ours.
Take it from me
I have travelled a alot and there are not many places that I would repeatedly return to. Tavira is only a short 30 minutes drive from Faro airport and for a short haul destination it has a lot to offer. Although relatively small, charming Tavira has a big personality and the options are endless when using it as a base to explore the surrounding area. For me, it is the sense of peace that I get each time I arrive that draws me back. It’s like I’ve been holding my breathe and I can finally exhale.